Saturday, December 31, 2011

Fish Tanks Filters - Maintenance

!: Fish Tanks Filters - Maintenance

Proper supervising is the key to your filtration stability. If your filter is very dirty or filled it won't perform 100% and by accumulating large amounts of fish droppings it can lead to dangerously high level of toxic ammonia. Below are 3 tips about filter maintenance:

1. Cleaning

Make sure you clean your filter once per 3-4 weeks. But don't use tap water which include chlorine that will kill your nitrifying bacteria (the good ones!), i mean you can but first you must add an anti-chlorine conditioner. Although it is recommended to clean it the water from your tank (to preserve mentioned bacteria)

2. Replacing filtration material

If you have a sump, bucket filter or any other with replaceable filtration material make sure that you change it regularly, stick to the producer advise which you can find on the wrapping.

3. Checking your filter health

Pay attention to your filter condition, is the pump pumping water as it was when your first bought it. Is the noise to loud or much louder than it was at the beginning (it can also occur due to it being filled or dirty). It can happen that you destroyed a certain small element and your filter cannot work without it. If one of those is the case than you can check the manual for guidance, or visit a store when you bought it, for sure they sell replacement parts.

So always remember to regularly check not only your filtration system but all devices that help sustain life in your aquarium, it is better to prevent than wait for something to happen.


Fish Tanks Filters - Maintenance

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Monday, December 26, 2011

Wayne Water Systems VIP50 1/2 HP 2,500 GPH Submersible Utility Water Pump

!: Used Wayne Water Systems VIP50 1/2 HP 2,500 GPH Submersible Utility Water Pump discount

Brand : Wayne | Rate : | Price : $78.28
Post Date : Dec 27, 2011 00:40:47 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • 1/2-horsepower submersible utility water pump can handle material up to 1/2-inch thick without clogging
  • Removes water within 1/8-inch of surface
  • Glass reinforced housing prevents rust
  • Connects to garden hose with 3/4-inch adjustable discharge adapter
  • 1-year limited warranty

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Wayne Water Systems VIP50 1/2 HP 2,500 GPH Submersible Utility Water Pump

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Sunday, December 11, 2011

Pond Equipment For Fish Ponds

!: Pond Equipment For Fish Ponds

So you've decided to build or install a fish pond. The next step will be to decide what pond equipment you are going to need.

If you have a look at all the available fish pond supplies, it can be quite mind boggling. So before you rush out and buy one of each item you can find, consider your own particular needs.

To make it easier, we can divide pond equipment into four different broad categories:

o Basic equipment to run the pond.
o Equipment to make ponds more decorative.
o Equipment to maintain water in fish ponds.
o Equipment for keeping fish.

Basic equipment
The basic equipment you will need for your new fish pond will depend on the type of pond you have chosen. It will also depend on the size of pond and whether you have opted to include a fountain, waterfall or any other form of running water in the design. In addition, it will depend on the type of fish you are planning to keep.

If you want fountains or running water, you will need a pump of some sort, either submersible or the surface type. While most submersible pumps come with fountain fittings, you may want to buy additional fittings, depending on the effects you want to create. This however, will fall into the next category.

If you are going to stock your new fish pond with koi, you will probably want to install a biological filter, and perhaps an ultra-violet (UV) unit that you can attach to the filter. You may also want a pond aerator to make sure there is always enough oxygen in the water for the fish.

Equipment to improve the look of the pond
Introducing moving water to any pond will enhance its decorative appeal. So, too will pond lighting, either inside the pond or at the edges.

For movement, consider any type of fountain, from those that spurt water high into the air, to those that simply bubble like a geyser just above the surface. There are dozens of types of fountain heads that you can add to a basic fountain kit, including domes and tulip shapes. Some pond aerators also come with fountain fittings, doubling up on function. So look at these as well.

When it comes to lighting up ponds decoratively at night, you can use any light fittings that are suitable for landscaping. But there are also many other options intended specifically for ponds, some of which are solar-powered and therefore energy efficient. Some of the more novel types include lights that float like water lilies and those that glow out of what looks like rock.

Equipment for water maintenance
Maintaining a fish pond is not difficult, provided you don't allow the water to become polluted, for example by leaving dead leaves, grass cuttings and other debris to rot in the water. A simple fish net, or alternatively a scoop, will enable you to remove this debris. The net may also be used to remove sick fish if necessary, or to move fish to a holding container (or tank) if the water has to be changed at any time.

If you are going to keep koi, it is also a good idea to get at least one tank that you can use if necessary. These are really more like temporary ponds and similar, but on a smaller scale than some of the vinyl kit swimming pools you can buy.

You will also need a selection of pond water test kits so that you can regularly check the pH of the water to see how acid or alkaline it is, as well as both the general and carbonate hardness of the water, and its nitrite, ammonia and salt levels.

Equipment for fish keeping
If you are keeping koi, in addition to hand-held nets and tanks, you may want to install a net over the entire pond, to protect the fish from predators. Other than that, all you will need is suitable food and a store of medication in case fish get sick.


Pond Equipment For Fish Ponds

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

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Tuesday, November 15, 2011

AquaTop Submersible Pond UV Sterilizer with Pump + Fountain Kit UVFK-9

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Brand : AquaTop | Rate : | Price : $69.95
Post Date : Nov 15, 2011 14:48:06 | Usually ships in 24 hours

AQUATOP’s UVFK Series UV Pumps with fountain kits are a perfect and versatile method to eradicate and control free-floating micro-organisms that cause the unsightly green water as well as disease causing pathogens in both your fresh & saltwater aquariums. The versatility of these fully submersible UV Pumps also allow for applications in your outdoor garden ponds. Unlike conventional UV Sterilizers which need the addition of a pump and extra plumbing, the UVCP-9 has a built in pump and ready to use without the hassle of extra plumbing. 9 watt UV Lamp, suitable to sterilize capacities up to 1,585 gallons.

  • 264 GPH w/ Adjustable Flow Rate
  • Filter Capacity; Freshwater=1585 gallons Saltwater= 60 gallons
  • 9 watt UV Bulb
  • 4 different fountain heads included
  • 24 watt unit

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

Sunterra 200850 Pond Pump, 850 GPH, Black

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Brand : Sunterra | Rate : | Price : $54.02
Post Date : Nov 10, 2011 20:33:26 | Usually ships in 24 hours

The pump is at the heart of a water garden. Without it, water will not circulate to create a healthy and balanced ecosystem. Sunterra pumps circulate water to help prevent breeding conditions for unwanted insects while oxygenating it for plants and fish. Pumps are distinguished by the gallons per hour they produce at one foot of lift or head. All Sunterra pumps are submersible and must be placed in water to function properly. Magnetic Pumps run by electrically charged magnet that causes the impeller to spin and circulate water through the pump. Magnetic drive pumps are environmentally safe, have no coolants and use less energy than direct drive pumps. They have a built in pre-filter and therefore can be used in clean or dirty water applications such as a fountain or pond. This Sunterra Pond Pump has a built in pre-filter to aid inthe water filtration process. Sunterra pumps are 100% water tested, have a 25 foot power cord and a two year limited warranty. This pond pump is 850 gallons per hour and has a 16.4 foot maximum lift.

  • Pond Pumps Circulate Water in a Pond to prevent Breeding conditions for Unwanted Insects while Oxygenating it for Plants and Fish
  • Pumps 850 Gallons of Water per Hour and has a Maximum Lift of 16.4'
  • Magnetic Pumps are Environmentally Safe, Have no Coolants and use less Energy than Direct Drive Pumps
  • Has a 25 Foot Power Cord
  • Has a 2 Year Limited Warranty and is UL Listed

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Saturday, November 5, 2011

Homemade Water Filtration Systems - It's Good For Pet Fish But Not For Safe Drinking Water

!: Homemade Water Filtration Systems - It's Good For Pet Fish But Not For Safe Drinking Water

Can you build effective homemade water filtration systems? Well, that all depends on your purpose.

If you want to keep your fish tank clean there are some acceptable homemade water filtration systems, but of course you have to buy the parts, which could cost as much as buying a ready-built unit. You would still need a standard aquarium power head and a submersible water pump.

You would also have to find a place that sells activated carbon in a bag. That might be kind of hard to find. Personally, I think the fish would be safer if you just bought a professional system.

Some people have constructed homemade water filtration systems for their outdoor ponds. You would need a plastic trash can with a lid, similar in height to the depth of your pond. You would again need to purchase some type of filtering material depending on the quality of your source water.

Once again, a waterproof pump would be required and piping. If not installed correctly, you risk electrocution. Ponds require aerating, as well as filtering in order to prevent stagnations. So, professional products may be a better choice than homemade water filtration systems for your pond.

Homemade water filtration systems are definitely not the right choice for safe drinking water. The technology is simply too complex.

There is a simple little science project that you can do with your kids, maybe on a rainy summer day, but I would not let them drink the result. There are diagrams for these projects all over the internet, so I'll leave out the details. But, it might give them an idea of how your kitchen counter filter works and you can give them this explanation.

Unlike homemade water filtration systems, our kitchen purifier has a lot of different steps inside. You know the cartridges that I replace every so often? Well, they remove things that we cannot see. We saw the dirt in that water, but not the chemicals and other things that can hurt us.

There could be bug spray, weed killer and tiny little germs that could make you sick. Homemade water filtration systems can't get rid of those things, so
I bought this nice one and now I know that you guys are safe.

For the adults, the number of steps in a system depends on which product that you buy. Most systems include an activated carbon step that removes most of the chlorine, which is put in at the treatment facilities to disinfect and prevent algae growth in the pipes.

In the better systems, there are multi-media blocks that remove VOCs, pesticides, herbicides and industrial pollutants through a process called adsorption. The best systems will also include a micron particle filter that removes microscopic sediments, cryptosporidium and giardia cysts.

They also include and ion exchange phase that removes lead ions and replaces them with potassium, so your water is safe and has a pleasant healthy taste.

That completes today's lesson on homemade water filtration systems. Hope you learned something.


Homemade Water Filtration Systems - It's Good For Pet Fish But Not For Safe Drinking Water

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Sunday, October 23, 2011

External vs. Submersible Pumps. Which One Should You Use?

!: External vs. Submersible Pumps. Which One Should You Use?

For many people, it's never been a question of whether to use a
submersible pump vs. an external pump because most people have
smaller ponds and are used to just using a submersible pump.
They're easy to install, and are pretty reliable - so why even
consider an external pump?

There are a couple of reasons...

But before we go into that, let's briefly talk about the benefits
of submersible pumps first. For obvious reasons, a submersible
pump is named as such because it is designed to be placed in the
pond, and submerged under the water.

These are the easiest of all pumps to install, just drop them in
the water and plug them in - and you’re ready to do. Of course,
you might have some quick plumbing to do, attaching a hose to the
waterfall or to a submersible filter (another article entirely),
but other than that - that's pretty much all there is to it.

Submersible pumps range in size or gallons per hour, from 50 GPH
all the way up to 50,000 gallons per hour, but for most ponds -
pumps anywhere from 350 GPH to 4000 GPH will do just fine...

So why might you also consider an external pump instead?

Here are a couple reasons. First, external pumps can much more
energy efficient. Now, a typical swimming pool or spa pump won't
usually fall into this category - so be careful not to compare
apples to oranges! Pool pumps can also be huge energy hogs, so
always check the amps to compare different pumps together.
Anything over 10 amps will draw a significant amount of $$ out of
your pocket every month in electrical costs.

The external pumps that we are talking about are designed
specifically for ponds and water gardens, and are engineered for
energy efficiency. I'm not sure why those folks in the swimming
pool and spa industry haven't figured out how to this yet, but
I'm sure they'll catch on sooner or later.

I'm inclined to think the average pond owner is a bit more
intelligent than the average pool owner. Why else would someone
choose a pool over a pond? Unless of course you have both, but at
any rate - let's just assume that we're talking about external
pond pumps here.

For comparison, a typical 4000 GPH (gallons per hour) submersible
pond pump will typically draw anywhere from 10 amps all the way
up to 15 amps, depending on the brand. This can really burn a
hole in your wallet (or pocketbook) on a monthly basis, and in
some parts of the country will run you - in energy costs.

In contrast, a comparatively rated external pond pump like the
William Lim Wave I External Pump
([https://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Pumps/wave_pump_for_ponds.htm])
is rated at 4380 GPH at 3.47 feet of head, and only draws 2.3
amps - that's 3/4 less energy consumption than the submersible
pumps.

When you start getting into larger ponds, 1000 gallons up to
20,000 and above - it's usually a good idea to look into these
more energy efficient pumps. For example, the 3/4 HP Dragon pump
([https://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Pumps/dragon_pumps.html])
will move 7,770 GPH at almost 5 feet of head (and under pressure)
and only burn 6.2 amps.

External pumps are almost always better for using with
pressurized external filters as well, as submersible pumps are
not designed to handle all the back pressure. Other benefits of
using an external pump include:

-> Easy to clean without getting your hands messy

-> Come with a removable leaf trap which clog less often

-> Easy to hook up to bottom drains or surface skimmers

-> Generally last longer, and easier to repair / replace parts

So that's it, more than enough information for you to make an
educated choice.

Just to recap:

For smaller ponds, and for simple installation and daily use,
submersible pumps are probably your best option. For larger
ponds, 1000 gallons and above, it may be worth looking into an
external pump for your needs. Although they cost a little more
on the front end, the energy savings alone can often more than
offset this increase in cost during the first year of use alone.


External vs. Submersible Pumps. Which One Should You Use?

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Thursday, April 14, 2011

POND WORKS 300 GPH PUMP

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Brand : Franklin | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Apr 14, 2011 16:04:08 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


These pumps, commonly referred to as "potted pumps", feature an epoxy encapsulated motor, plastic housing, and radial lip seal on the motor shaft.

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Saturday, April 9, 2011

New 636:Submersible Sump Pump for Basements:Ponds:Pools

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Brand New Submersible Sump Pump - 1/2HP! Rated Power: 350 Watts Max Delivery Capacity: 1200 Gallons / Hour Q Max: 5.5 m^3/h H Max: 7m Particle Size Max: 5mm Max Delivery Height: 7m Max Submersion Depth: 5m Minimum Water Level for operation: 7cm Cut in height: 53cm Cut out height: 5cm Cut in and Cut Out Height is Adjustable. Voltage: 110V Frequency: 60HZ Cord Length: @ 16 Feet Note: Due to supplier variation the product color and specifications may vary slightly.

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Friday, March 25, 2011

Pond Pumps - Helpful Tips From A Tampa Bay Store!

!: Pond Pumps - Helpful Tips From A Tampa Bay Store!

Pumps! No, I'm not talking about your mother's shoes; I mean the mechanical devices used to move water. No doubt, if you have a pond you know a pump is significant to circulate water. But what are the options available when buying one? What type (External or Submersible) will best fit my needs? How big does a pump need to be? These questions may scare new pond owners. When it comes to choosing the definite pump however, the only thing you need is some basic information.

A pump is a gadget used to move liquids from lower pressure to higher pressure by adding vigor to the water system. They push the material (in this Case being water) by lifting or by the force of compression. Basically it is a machine needed to keep water in your pond moving, and/or push water up to your waterfall. It is significant to aerate your pond and to avoid stagnate or putrid water.

All pumps used in ponds will fall under two categories: external or internal/submersible. An External is used out of water like the systems used for a pool or spa. Internals are used fully submersed in water. Both types have advantages for the buyer.

External pond pumps, not to be confused with External pool pumps that consume energy, are often used in larger ponds. The reason being they are very vigor efficient. This is because they typically use fewer Amps than an Internal/ Submersible pump. An Amp (Ampere) is a unit of galvanic current. The less Amps used, the less vigor used, resulting in more money saved. They are easy to clean with out getting wet, and hook-up to a bottom drain is fairly simple. Also, most come with a leaf trap to sell out clogs. The down side: They are complicated to install and are typically more expensive.

How do External pumps work? Like any pump, two gears turn in and out of the mesh to cause flow. The unlikeness in the middle of Submersible and External pumps is that Externals use identical gears. One gear is driven by a motor which in turn Drives the other gear. They are both supported by a shaft. The rotating gears originate pressure and push the liquid through the dismissal outlet.

Internal/Submersible pond pumps are most generally used in water gardens and Koi ponds. They typically range from 50gph to 50,000gph. They are quick and easy to install. You simply place the pump (fully submerged) in water, plug it in, and attach a hose to any waterfalls you might have. They are space productive and admittedly inexpressive to make for a more natural finding pond. The down side: They can be vigor hogs for larger ponds, and replacement parts may be difficult to come by.

How do Internal pumps work? Internal pumps also use two gears. As the gears rotate in and out of the mesh, voids are created and liquid flows into the cavities, the liquid then is forced through the dismissal outlet.

So which type of pump best fits your needs? Ask yourself: How many gallons of water are in my pond? What is my budget? Do I mind finding my pump or would I rather a more assorted approach? Do I prefer easy installation? How many amps do I prefer to run? After taking these questions into consideration, rule which type would suit your pond needs best. There a join of factors needing consideration before shopping.

First, you need to shape out how many gallons of water are in your pond. To do this, use a uncomplicated formula: mean length x mean Width x mean Depth x 7.48. For example: to find the gallons in a pond that is 10' in length by 6' in width that is 2' deep you would use the method 10 x 6 x 2 x 7.48 =897.6 or approx. 900 gallons. You want a pump that will circulate the total volume of the pond once per hour. So a pump that is 900gph (gallons per hour) or 15gpm (gallons per minute) would be needed. However, streams, and waterfalls need to be taken into list as well.

If you have a waterfall, you want a pump that can list for the height of the waterfall plus the volume of the pond. If your waterfall is 5' high, and the depth of your pond is 2', the max head (the height) the pump needs to be able to originate has to be at least a join of feet higher than your waterfall or 7'.

To sum things up, if you have a pond that is 900 gallons in volume with a waterfall that is 5' high, you need a pump with a gph of 900 and a max head/height of at least 7'. How will you know what pump is capable of what actions? Do not worry; most pumps come with a ready-made flow-rate chart on the packaging. If you happen to find that one pump that doesn't, as is my luck, simply ask a sales associate. After all, they are there to help.

Once you shape out what type and size pump you will need it's time to go find the right one. Pay close attentiveness to the time allotted for the pump warranty. Most pond pumps are warranted for two-three years. Once you've bought a pump make sure to read the directions (yes, the directions) for easy installation. Pump shopping is not as difficult as it seems.


Pond Pumps - Helpful Tips From A Tampa Bay Store!

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Friday, March 11, 2011

Pond Pump | Pond Water Pumps | Pond Pumps

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